My Parkzone Radian Modifications and Set Ups

Here's a post on how I've modified and tuned my Parkzone E-Flight Radian to improve its flight performance and reliability. This popular training plane can greatly be improved with a few simple modifications. Read the article, see the photos and watch the tuning video after the jump.

For beginner glider pilots, I recommend these full-length training videos to help you learn the skills and techniques required for successful r/c soaring:

Radio Clinic for Sailplanes - Performance Tuning  - Secrets of Thermal Soaring  -  Electric Sailplane Clinic 1  

Use the coupon code new10off at check out to save 10% off any Radio Carbon Art training DVD, digital download or video set.

Horizon Hobby Radian Modification and Improvement Guide
By Paul Naton © 2015 Feel free to share this site location or content
http://www.radiocarbonart.com/

The Radian (and the Pro version, which is not the best trainer choice) is a fine plane, and I recommend this glider to all new pilots learning to fly. Get one, fly it hard for a year, learn to tune it right, learn to thermal, learn to land it at your feet almost every time in calm or wind. When you can do all that, and fly this glider confidently in any conditions, it's then time to step up to a better performing plane.

The particular Radian shown in the photos and videos is being used as a demo e-glider for a training video program (Electric Sailplane Clinic 1) I produced covering electric soaring essential skills. This plane is also used as a primary trainer for my 10 year old son who is getting good with the baby UMX Radian.

Out of the box, the Radian is flyable for sure, but it certainly does not handle as well as it should, nor glide as efficiently as it could. Compared to balsa-built gliders like the Gentle Lady, Spirit, or Wanderer, all of which I have built and trained others on, the Radian needs some help reaching its true soaring potential. Some of the included gear, its installation, rigging and flight settings are not what they could be for easy learning and instructional gliding. With a few mods and improvements, it can as good as or better than any 2 meter woody trainer. The following mods can be applied to the Pro version as well.

I first flew a friend's stock Radian before getting mine, and it was clear right away that it was way out of tune, hard to control in pitch at any speed, and would not hold trim. I felt like a big foam dog, but I could tell it had more soaring potential.

Like with any new glider, I ran the stock Radian through some basic set-up and tuning procedures learned over 25 years of hard-core slope and thermal competition flying with the world's best pilots. I've built over a 100 gliders of all kinds so doing tuning and optimization is second nature.

I first check all the plane's hardware looking for flaws. I disassemble things to check build quality, then remount things, improve what's there, then tune the CG and program the radio to get a 95% perfect glider before the first flight. All of the set up and building techniques I use are taught on in my video series like the Performance Tuning training video.

The things I did to improve my Radian are not magical, difficult to do or high tech. The only money spent was on paint and a bigger Graupner prop. My main goal was to optimize the planes performance under power and while gliding. I also wanted to improve reliability, eliminating any break-points or failure-prone hardware. I also wanted to make the plane a bit more crash worthy as it will be flown by kids at some point.

First off, the Center of Gravity setting recommended in the manual was going to be way off, and this is a typical problem with most ARF gliders. Just looking at the nice modern planform of the Radian's wing, I guessed the CG was about an inch or more too far forward. Since I couldn't move the gear in the fuse back much, and tail weight was going to be required, I decided to add more structure to the tail group and stiffen up the floppy foam fuselage and bendy elevator fin.

I first laminated 3 strands of 12K carbon tow down the boom with epoxy, see pictures. Used a slow set epoxy and made a nice dry layup, this added maybe 6 grams overall, and this really helped stiffen the boom. A 1/8" hollow carbon rod or arrow shaft inserted and epoxied into the foam at the bottom of the fuselage from the wing saddle to the tail is even a better way to stiffen things up.

There is a weak point at the juncture of the vertical fin and fuselage, there's not much foam there. There's lots of twisting force there from the rudder as you turn. Nothing worse than aeroelasticity in the elevator/fin area when going at a fast L/D (lift over drag) speed. I made a plywood splint, slotted out the fin with a knife, and epoxied it in place. See picture for the approximate shape. This splint ties in vertical fin to the fuselage and keeps the whole structure from bending. The splint make a big improvement in handling with minimal bending and twist even under G loads. The elevator stays firm, no pitch or yaw drift when maneuvering.

For the wings, I wet sanded the foam with 400 grit to get off the nubs and polished up the LE a bit. Added 3M box tape around the leading edge span-wise and added 2 strips top and bottom. The tape smoothes out the foams roughness and adds much strength span wise without adding much weight. Having the smooth tape for the first half of the wing should really help keep the flow more laminar. Three grams added weight per tape strip, well worth it for stiffer cleaner wings. Tape also adds crush resistance for the whole leading edge area. Low temp film would work too, though much heavier. Paint on tips is Krylon Fusion for red, cheap black enamel for the rest. Tape peels paint though, so tape first, paint over. Pro Tip: Use alcohol to clean the foam of mold release before adding tape, painting, or gluing.

The stock plastic hinges of the elevator are going to fail, so I cut thru the plastic hinges, then used box tape to hinge the surface back together. Tape gives more stiffness too, so added a strip top and bottom span wise. The rudder hinges seem OK for now, I added some gap seal to the top hinge area, this should help rudder response a bit. Will keep tabs on that rudder hinge line though, I suspect it will wear quickly and fail. Standard CA flex hinges would be a good replacement for the rudder.

Pushrods/servos: The geometry of the pushrods is not the best. Having huge arms on the servos and using the far outside holes is not good glider practice as it reduces the resolution and holding power of the low-cost analog servos. This poor pushrod set up at the servos causes double centering, poor servo power response at higher speeds, and reduced resolution. I haven't remounted/replaced the servos yet, but might later. I did move the elevator pushrod to the next hole in, though I would like it in further. I melted the servo arm slightly with a soldering iron at the hole to close it up to remove slop at the pushrod z bend. You can use CA at the hole too. having a tight elevator pushrod system is critical in achieving smooth pitch response and accurate elevator position trimming! A lot of the Radian pitch control complaints come from the double-centering of the elevator system.

I also faired in the pushrod runs in the fuse with light weight spackle, and used balsa blocks to support the pushrods at the aft ends to eliminate flex under load. (see photos) I also glued down the entire pushrod lengths with CA as the factory glue is poorly done and does not hold well.

The clamps they use at the control surface ends ARE junk. I broke both of them tightening them down. Horizon should know better than to use parkflyer hardware on a 2 meter. (NOTE: they have replaced the hardware in newer planes as of 2015) As you can see in the pictures, I used snap links either glued/crimped or epoxied to the pushrods. Far more reliable and stiff. There are other larger hardware connectors you could also use. I moved the elevator horn more inboard to get a straighter run and smoother movement. You have to reinforce the elevator area to do this, there is not much foam to clamp into. I CA'd the two plastic horn halves together along with the screws, it's strong now. This mod really helped eliminate double neutral in the elevator system. My elevator system is rock solid and centers perfectly, even with the long arm on the cheap servos. Elevator feel/centering is critical to good gliding.

I then put the plane on the tuning table and measured for wing twist (foam twists easy) and the decalage angle (angle of incidence between wing and elevator) with Robart meters. I cover all of this vital tuning stuff in the Performance Tuning video. http://www.radiocarbonart.com/produc...ailplanes.html Wings checked out fine. Nice.

However, the decalage angle (stab to wing incidence) was about 2 degrees or more. You could see the big angle just by looking down the boom from behind. This is the main issue with the Radian, built in MASSIVE up trim. The forward factory CG location combined with the UP stab angle makes the Radian climb quickly any time the speed increases while gliding or under power.

Check out the photos, fixing the decalage is easy, describing it is not. Unscrew the plastic stab mount, its 2 pieces. re-insert the female end partially (shorter stubs) and rotate the front upwards, the measurement of the bottom of the plastic mount to the old embossed area molded into the fin should be 6-7mm, which gets rid of about 2 degrees of angle. You need to slice a piece of foam out of the top of the stab mount hole to fit the mount back in, and drill a new hole for the front screw stud. See photos. Reassemble the mounts with some CA or hot glue. You will have to trim the rudder clearance hole a bit so the horn clears at full deflections. Remount stab, cover gaps with tape. Takes about 5 minutes.

NOTE: Later Radians seem to have less decalage angle, though many still have this angle issue due to the poor factory gluing of the fuselage stiffener. The angle of the stiffener in effect sets the tail angle to the wing. If your Radian balloons even after you move the CG way back, and you already have some down-trim in the elevator, check you tail decalage angle.

I still needed some tail weight to get the CG back where I liked it, so a 1 oz lead chunk got inserted into the foam under the rear tail skid. This got my CG over an inch back from the 'factory' setting. An inch is a huge amount of CG shift even for a 4 meter plane.

Because I worked on the elevator linkage to ensure perfect centering, my Radian flies hands off, and will free fly for long periods. It is not pitch unstable, yet does not pull up at all in a dive test. The glider is sensitive to the lightest energy changes in the air, and responds crisply to any elevator stick movement. The elevator flap trims flat at a medium L/D glide, and a few clicks of up gives it a minimum sink speed.

My 2 basic elevator trim settings are set to flight modes, my JR 9503 radio has this ability. I have a third mode for speed penetration which adds more down trim to penetrate wind. With the built-in down thrust of the motor, (which is there to counter the stock forward CG and decalage pull up tendency) I needed to mix a little up up elevator with the motor switch, but just a bit, plane now climbs at a 45 angle hands off. With the stock tuning set up, you had to have the stick jammed forward to keep the plane from looping under power.

For you guys putting a 2100 mah motor pack in the nose, this shifts your CG even more forward and if you are already at the factory CG setting, you are just making the plane's trim and CG problem worse.

If you are scared to change CG, get a 1/2oz piece of lead, and tape it to the boom just in back of the wing. Slide it back a bit each flight and feel how the plane changes. Keep going back as you learn how the handling feels. As the CG comes back, you will need more down trim, try a one or two clicks at a time, you are looking for a flat glide path while gliding. CG changes will only help things so much, you need to change the decalage angle (or elevator trim setting) to get things really rocking. CG is a personal preference, but extreme nose heaviness kills handling and thermal finding ability. You may need to reduce the total elevator throw in your radio if the elevator gets too sensitive as the CG goes back. Use a dual rate with reduced throw until you get used to the more sensitive elevator response. You will be amazed how much better this trainer flies when you get the CG back and elevator trimmed properly.

I did change the prop to a Graupner 11-8, (11-6 works too) which did improve the climb, though at the expense of run time. I still use the stock spinner as it is the lightest solution. The stock spinner has a high failure rate, I've blown up a few already. I'm going to try a Multiplex Cularis spinner next which fits the Radian perfectly and is a better design. I won't put on any of the aluminum aftermarket spinners as they are very heavy and just makes the CG forward issue worse. Keep the nose light!

My motor pack is a Gen Ace 25C 1300, great price and they have been reliable. I use a smaller Thunder Power 850 45c pack for contests or no wind days. I am impressed with the stock motor system, this they did right. With the bigger prop and a decent battery, a 200 meter ALES climb in under 30 seconds is no problem. The receiver I use is a JR 921, overkill, but that's what was in the spares box. Having a fail-safe set up with this receiver is nice though, no flyways on this baby. My all up weight is 29.4 oz.

I did add flaperons after I wrote this original modification guide. Flaperons gave me fantastic roll control, camber changing for the wing, and of course tremendous speed control when used as landing flaps. Only added about 1oz. with the two extra mini servos and wire. Took a few hours to do but this mod totally transformed the poly Radian into a much more versatile soaring machine that will outfly the Pro version any day. In fact I won the second contest day of the 2012 Polecat ALES tournament with this Radian against 70 pilots most of which were flying expensive composite gliders.

Future mods will be to put some high quality digital servos in the tail, which will eliminate the tail lead and the pushrod weight. Battery should be under the wing where the servos are. Could cut weight by 2-3 oz and have better servo control as a bonus.

If you're interested in learning the basic skills of building, tuning, and flying gliders, I suggest purchasing some of my world famous training videos. Use the coupon code new10off at check out to save 10% off any Radio Carbon Art training video product.

Always happy to answer questions, contact me though the website.

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Post questions here, or call me, the number is on my site, happy to chat.  Paul Naton   Radio Carbon Art Productions

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Comments

[Mike]

Okay, I've now destroyed two Radians at $200 each after making the modifications you suggested. The first time was my fault, I didn't measure CG and decalage angle, opting only to use your measurements, but the second time I wasted two and a half weeks getting everything right. I bought your performance tuning video. I bought the deflection and wing angle indicators. I measured everything out. I added the flaperons. I trimmed out all the control surfaces to neutral. My CG was at 3.2", and the decalage angle was within .5 degrees, as best as I could measure on the foam tail. Everything worked fine, but the glider was borderline uncontrollable. I tried it with the modified wings and a spare set of standard wings. No matter what I did, it kept trying to bank hard over. Sometimes I could pull it out of it, sometimes I couldn't, and now it's just a pile of foam chunks in the garbage can. Rather than spending yet another $200 on the same poorly tuned P.O.S. glider, can you instead recommend a powered glider that actually flies WELL and is properly tuned out of the box? The Radian flew fine before I modified it, aside from the constant pitch-ups.

[C]

I must say, the Radian is a joy! I ordered one the other day, recieved it,and unfortunately the mail company did a job on it. It was all warped, broken, and disfigured. Actualy it resembled a pretzel. I didnt let that stop me though. I went to a local hobby store, bought some music wire rods to straighten it, and some thick CA. I took it all home and sat down to "straighten out" the pretzel. About 90 minutes later I had what resembles a Radian. I set it aside, waited for the weather to cooperate, and took her out to try her warped self today. I say that because she looks ok, but once in the air, you can see the tail is slightly out of wack. I flew her twice. The first time she wanted to just eat dirt. I fed her up elevator and she reluctantly complied. I ended up feeding FULL up trim and still had to hold in about another quarter of the stick. I fought her for 5 and then landed. Once grounded, I adjusted the pushrod clevis(3 or 4 turns out) and gave her a 2nd shot. This time I was aprehensive about the way she would react. I had a friend hand launch her and she responded with an AWSOME climb out. She had become a Radian. Well mannerd and quite responsive. I was extreamly happy. I got her airborn, adjusted correctly, and had a well mannered aircraft. She (the Radian) is a keeper!

[Paul]

Paul,
Hello. I should'nt be asking this, but I will. I'm a long time Radian pilot. So long that I'm building number 10 right now. I will admit though, I've never measured the control throws on ANY of them. I already am making plans for number 11. But, before I get there, will you please give me some REASONABLE control deflections for a totally unmodified Radian? Thank you. Paul

[Bob West]

Paul, I got caught in a cyclonic wind at about 1000 ft. It broke off the tail and broke the top wing saddle off which allowed both wings to leave the Radian. Any suggestions for how to strengthen the wing saddle (the part over the wing)?

Also what do you think of running that carbon ribbon on the top of the fuse, and up the tail to strengthen that weak point?

I am a very poor builder and repairer and only fly sailplanes, which of your DVD's would you recommend?

Thanks so much for the help
Bob

[Bob West]

Paul, I got caught in a cyclonic wind at about 1000 ft. It broke off the tail and broke the top wing saddle off which allowed both wings to leave the Radian. Any suggestions for how to strengthen the wing saddle (the part over the wing)?

Also what do you think of running that carbon ribbon on the top of the fuse, and up the tail to strengthen that weak point?

I am a very poor builder and repairer and only fly sailplanes, which of your DVD's would you recommend?

Thanks so much for the help
Bob

[Paul B.]

Question Paul,
I just cristend my clipped wing power up Racien,as I call it. My only concern is this. I instaled an E-flite POWER 10 on a Radian nosecone piece. The airplane flew grand at 1/2 throtle. If I tried to fly it faster on the throtl, it would nose down and refused tomaintain altitude. I went ahead and installed washers behind the bottom two motor mounts. Ihavent flown it yet,but the engine looks more inline then before. Question: is the offset caused by the 3 or 4 degrees of built in down thrust? Im assuming so. If so, will the same problem reappear on my other Radians that I modified with LARGER motors?

[Paul B.]

Paul,
Just the usual question. I viewed the mod tapes and made them to my radian. Shes a joy to fly now. My concern is that I cropped 1 foot from either side of a second wing set so now my wing is 47.5 inches. I went ahead and installed FLAPARONS to it for more control. Im just curious. I installed a eflite power 10 to it, and cut 1.5 inches off of either side of the horizontal stab and elevator. I have it balanced at 3.25. I even added gear(tail dragger) so I dont have to hand launch it. Can you give me any advice as to what Im in for other than higher flight speeds and touchier controls. I even took it to the field today(didnt fly though), but was repeatedly told it now resembled a quicky 500 racer. TY.

[Paul B.]

Paul,
I tried the mods and they work wonderfully. I also own a Radian Pro. Can I use the decalage mod on that aircraft?

[Paul]

THANK YOU Paul!
I flew my new,rebuilt,restored,modified Radian yesterday. It flew like a dream! I will admit though, It tip stalled on the approach at about 50 feet because I was going slooooo. No sweat though. I added power and she recovered. She now flies faster, but still as an angel. Thanks again for a great mod(decalage angle reduction).

[Paul Blais]

Paul,
I just had another thought(scary). I got to thinking about my modified radian. It wanted to desend. After some thought, I realize that it wasnt my stabalizer deflection correction, it was DOWN THRUST!No mater how much up trim I used, she wanted to decend. Im thinking that because of the downward pull of the motor, the aircraft took up diving. I've givin it some thought. I didnt see or even catch a glimps or wiff that UP THRUST should be added to compensate for the built in 3 degrees of down thrust. Im recieving a new fuselage on Thursday and Im going to modiufy it again PLUS add 3 or 4 washers behind the motor on three of the 4 bolts, to compensate for the down thrust. Personaly I feel that you should make it a point to advise other pilots/modifiers of the thrust correction. I think that it might just save a glider or two. That was just a thought, do with it as you will. NO HARD FEELINGS!, or landings:) Paul

[Paul Blais]

Paul,
Thank you for the prompt reply. I will now admit, I tried my modified radian today. She flew,,,well, She flew. I ended up meeting the ground nose first from 71 feet(per my altimiter). I got slightly upset. BUT. i NOW HAVE A NEW FUSELAGE ON THE WAY, 3 SETS OF WINGS, AND A CANOPY. iM SET TO MAKE A NEW ONE. aFTER SITTING DOWN AND TRYING TO CALM DOWN, i REALIZE WHAT THE CAUSE OF MY "INCIDENT" WAS. i HAD PUT APROX 7 OR 8 MM DECALAGE ANGLE ON THE STAB. i DIDNT REALIZE THAT ONLY 1 OR 2MM WOULD HAVE SUCH AN EFECT. tHE PLANE ONLY WANTED TO DESCEND THE ENTIRE FLIGHT. iVE BEEN THINKING. i MIGHT DO THE STAB ANGLE AGAIN BUT ONLY 2 OR 3 MM. wILL THAT RESULT IN A large NON CLIMBING tendency? although I realize she will still have a climbing lust.

[Paul Blais]

I just finished rebuilding my Radian. A wind gust got under the left wing and flipped her into the ground upon my last launch. My question is I have since made your mods to it and am curious as to how she will handle. Will she be faster, more responsive, more stable, or? I bought a second and third set of wings. I added FLAPARONS to one set and built the other one with no mods. Im curious as to how the fuselage will react. I changed the decalage angle so that will remain a constant change for all of the wings(flaparons, no mods, a super short 4ft. wingspan cropping with ailerons). Any comment will be appreciated.
OHHHHHH YEAH, the CG is 3 3/8" back from the LE.

[LR]

Larry:
No need to worry about that forward pivoting. At, say, 4000 rpm, your blades will experience over 800 g's (!) at the tip. Only over 400 g's halfway out. I suspect that's enough to keep the prop open when it's spinning.

In my experience, the Graupner 10 X 8 will get you to 200 meters in time. And it will make your motor last longer.

[Larry Bradford]

I received and installed the Graupner 11/8" prop today and it pivots 30 degrees forward beyond being 90 degrees to the motor shaft. Have I got the wrong 11/8 prop (1329.28.20) &/or do I need a different prop mounting hub? Yes, I had to drill the attachment pin holes larger to fit the standard pins. No big deal.

[PN]

The plywood support is inserted into the tail, a slot is cut centerline from the top, then the support inserted,fitted and then epoxied in. THe side view photo shows the postion of the brace once inside the tail, no glued to the side. - PN

[Alan Heller]

You mentioned in your video about adding 1/32 plywood to the tail. Is one side good enough or should it be added to both sides? I have two Radians and just bought a Radian Pro. I am using one of the Radians for your mods. Hope to have them ready by the time this cold weather breaks!

[DeForest Mapp]

I taped my entire Radian with scotch wrapping tape.(Wings and all)I have not had the chance to fly it because of the weather. Do you think this will improve performance and durability?

[Tony Fry]

Paul,
Do these decalage etc. mods hold good for the Radian Pro. as well?

cheers Tony Fry

[steve]

I've had a hoot with mine, and flights over 1.5h, but always on a slightly puffy, now 2 year old stock battery.

Can anyone speak to making one of the batteries that's aftermarket fit the EC3 connector?

I love duration and would love to do a 2h plus flight...thanks in advance.

[David Sciortino]

Thank you Paul, for sharing your mods with us.

Any recent updates or amendments to share, before we start cutting, melting, taping, and gluing?

[Tony]

I did the mods you suggested and now it wants to point down a lot..

Did you use the same spinner or is that an upgrade too?

[PN]

For the last two comments:
yes, change the decalage angle of the tail IF you know what that angle is by measurement. If your decalage is beyond one degrees negative (up angle to wing) then you must change the tail angle as the CG goes back. As I say in the video, tail power increases as CG goes back, making any decalage angle amplified.

As for the prop, the 11-8 has a wide shoulder that needs to to be ground down to fit the stock Radian spinner and pins. It should fold back fine, you can trim the spinner openings if they bind.

Paul

[Tony]

Hi, thanks for that info, iv done a few of the mods to mine now, iv not had time to try it out yet though..

One quick question if you dont mind, the 11x8 prop.. did you have to change the spinner? i have these props but they dont fit in the spinner and if they did they wouldnt fold flat to the fus.. maybe you use a different part??

Thanks again for everything..

[Sam]

I just read your very informative article on improving the Radian glider. I started building models in1956 and built many from 1/2 A to many 1/4 scale. Now after 25 years of not building I want to get back into flying again. I purchased the Radian and soon found the weak tail assembly. I fiberglassed the the rear fuselage and part of the fin with 1/2 oz. glass and eze-kote. It did a great job of fixing the tail. I will incorporate your other excellent mods. The question I have is that should I modify the stab. incidence as well. I am again just a beginner flyer and for learning to fly again should I modify it or stay with the original position and CofG and maybe modify it later after I have more stick time.

[Bob Center]

For my Radian I made a short wing (1.5 m), and a long wing (2.5 m) out of two stock wings. From one stock wing I cut a ..25m length out of the wing, just inboard of where the downwash begins. Removing the .25m chunk and gluing the "tip" to the "root" gives the short wing.

Cut the other stock wing just inboard of the downwash, and insert the piece taken out of the other stock wing.

I used a chop saw to ensure precisely square cuts; foam-safe gap filling super glue; and "Scotch Tough" transparent duct tape. This tape is great for all sorts of construction e.g. tailboom and wing stiffening, leading edge hardening and repair, e.g warping the tailboom to compensate for crash-induce fuselage deformity, so that yaw trim is not necessary. A great feature of this tape, particularly with white foam, is that it is pretty much invisible, or actually improving appearance by lending a smooth sheen.

Try it, you will like it.

Aeronautical engineering, design, and airframe mechaniching complete, we went to the cow pasture next door for flight tests.
The really cool thing is that the flights turned out as well as I had imagined.

As I thought might be the case, both flew OK with trim settings for the stock wing. T

Test flights with both wings were all successful; short wings had a much quicker roll rate, faster glide. Short wings seemed to climb more quickly at the same power setting.

The long wings seemed to increase sensitivity to elevator control input.

I look forward to thermaling the big wing and slope soaring the small wing.

I have not decided whether or not to change the decalage and move the CG aft. The higher aspect ratio will cause the plane to stall earlier; would moving the CG aft exacerbate this?

Also, it seems that a forward CG will provide better slope soaring stability and responsiveness, using the short wing.

Bob Center

P.S. Early on I got tired of digging cow pie and dirt out of the nose cone, and built several versions of light weight wheels that work well and could be better if I could find some titanium wire. I have slope soared with the wheels on, but I am not sure that thermalling would be possible with the wheels. I do not use them much anymore, but they are usefull if you are working on improving your landings.

If you would like photos of any of this stuff let me know and I will post (how do I do that?) or send them.